Author: Capt. Charlie Ellis

Even we take a vacation to go fishing once in a while.  😉  This year for my birthday, I decided to celebrate in style – wrenching on lunker yellowfin tuna with  the top notch fishing operation in Venice, LA – Paradise Outfitters.

After several disappointing yellowfin tuna missions to the Bahamas in the last year, I needed to get the yellowfin vendetta out of my system.  I’ve spent a fair bit of time researching which destinations in the world offer the best yellowfin tuna fishing – Panama, Mexico, Southern CA, and even the Philippines only to arrive at the conclusion that nothing really compares to the epic ridiculousness of tuna fishing in Venice, LA. When hashing out the idea with my friend Capt. Nick – he pointed me in the direction of Capt. Hunter Caballero – the owner of Paradise Outfitters. I took one look at venicefishing.com and knew my search had come to a close. Sometimes the universe just unfolds as it should.

You’d be hard pressed to find a more established and skilled crew in Venice, LA.  Capt. Hunter and Capt. Woody are all-stars in the offshore scene and have been at it for quite some time.  Their capabilities are limitless and they’ve mastered fishing the midnight lump and countless oil rigs for nearly every pelagic species that swims in the Gulf of Mexico. Hunter’s custom built 41′ catamaran is a BEAST of a fishing machine – equipped with a pair of Yamaha V8’s and the latest Furuno electronics.

The ability of this boat to crush the waves and haul ass through fierce water is unlike anything i’ve personally experienced. Weather conditions during our trip were rough, but the sea gods spared us just enough of a window to make the magic happen.

I’ll be blunt – Day 1 produced the most epic yellowfin tuna fishing I have ever experienced. The ride out into the Gulf of Mexico was a chilling reminder of the lethality of harsh seas coupled with March winds. We plowed through the ocean out to the first set of pumping stations where a quick troll produced a single blackfin. With dirty water everywhere and the fish not responding to a few strategically trolled rapalas, we pulled in the lines and made the remainder of the run to the midnight lump. We began marking fish immediately upon arrival.

I spent a fair bit of time chunking for bluefin tuna off Ocean City, MD while I was growing up…and I was literally thrilled when I realized that’s exactly what we’d be doing all day for the yellowfins.  As soon as the chunks of bunker went into the water…the bonitas began swarming the boat.  “A good sign” as Woody put it.  The first few chunks to hit the water with hooks inside got slammed and we began bailing bonitas for bait. On the second drift – Todd was the first to connect with a nice 20lb yellowfin.  A thrilling indication that Hunter had put us right on the money spot.

We started marking fish like crazy under the boat and Hunter made the brilliant decision to set the anchor and get the chum slick going in force.  From that point on – it was total mayhem. Every bait that hit the water got ROCKED.  This was the epic fishing i’d been searching for – a haven where sportfishermen can rejoice in complete and total immersion in battling yellowfin, after yellowfin, after yellowfin.

During the frenzy we caught yellowfins, blackfins, kingfish, countless amberjacks, bonitas, and lost dozens upon dozens of fish to cut offs and slow hands on the drag lever.  The ferocity of the bites was simply astounding – as long as the chum slick kept rolling – the fish kept biting. With enough yellowfin on ice to satiate our carnal desire for sashimi – we decided to switch gears and start tagging the fish before sending them home.

Day 1 of yellowfin tuna fishing in Venice, LA was truly an epic experience unlike any other.  The closest thing I can relate to this was bluefin tuna chunking – but on those trips we were lucky to score two or three fish in a day. At the end of Day 1, we caught a total of 18 yellowfins, a dozen or so blackfins, countless bonitas, and who knows how many 30+lb amberjacks. The volume of fish in the water at the midnight lump is just staggering. The last fish of the day was the monster i’d been searching for over the last few years.  About 15 minutes before picking up the lines and headed in…i hooked a bruiser which stripped line with a vengeance.  From the moment I pushed the drag in gear, I knew I had a massive fish fight on my hands.  I strapped in for the fight while Hunter was quick to drop the anchor and get on the helm.

We chased the fish for a bit and fought it for about 14 minutes before reaching the flourocarbon leader. The beast was almost to the surface when it made a last minute turn for the props and that was that.  Whatever it was…a giant yellowfin, a giant wahoo…the world’s largest bonita…we’ll never know.  But I do know that it was a sign of what was to come on day 2.

Day 2 was rough.  The winds were blowing a steady 20knts and the wind was COLD. Still aching from the epic fish fights of the day before, we just couldn’t resist venturing back out for another run. I was still reeling (no pun intended) from the loss of the giant fish the day before, but had a sense of confidence heading into the second expedition now that I knew what to expect. Chunking for tuna is something i’ve known and loved for years – i’m not sure why it didn’t click that’s the name of the game for big yellowfin tuna in Venice, LA during February and March. We pressed out into the cold only to be greeted by a brisk following sea.

We arrived to the fishing grounds after a jarring ride through a solid 3 to 5 with a few 6 footers mixed in. The following sea softened the blow a bit, but we knew the ride home would be a challenge.  I learned that day why Hunter built a TANK of a boat.

We arrived to rough seas at the lump – but the fish were showing up THICK on the sounder.  We knew it was just a matter of time until Hunter would have them dialed in and we’d be back at it again. Shortly after chunking up a few bonitas, the marks started to show up more consistently under the boat…and then the bite turned back on with a fury!

With tunas swarming the boat – the mood was sublime.  We were back on the fish and despite the rough weather the yellowfins were feeding aggressively.  Every bait was getting slammed within a minute of hitting the water. There were times when the maks on the sonar were so thick it appeared to be interference…but it just wasn’t the case. The volume of life swimming around the Midnight Lump is stupefying…surreal at times. Nothing really compares to seeing that much life swarming in a chum slick.

After a few big hits where I failed to engage the drag quickly enough to connect…i decided to go for the gold and put a giant hunk of bonita on my hook. Over the side the double whopper sized chunk went and within 45 seconds the drag starts screaming.  It’s a monster fish and I call for the harness. Now let me clarify that i’ve fought just about every pelagic species that swims…from broadbills to bluefins…and this fish was putting a hurt on me like I hadn’t felt in years. I wasn’t sure whether I was weak from the day before or if my thighs just weren’t as strong as they used to be (hey…i just had a birthday.  i’m getting old).  I laid into this fish hard, but couldn’t budge it much.  After a few bouts of give and take…one of which almost pulled me over the side…up pops the new boat record Amberjack!

This fish tipped the scale at 97lbs by the time it hit the dock, but i’m sure it was at the 100lb mark at the time we brought it in the boat.  This fish gave one of the most painful battles i’ve experienced to date…I was so exhausted after the fight I could hardly lift it up for a picture.

And if that wasn’t enough…the day kept getting more epic.  Large amberjacks continued to beat us within inches of exhaustion…slamming one out of every three baits that hit the water.  It was to the point where we became mildly disappointed that a hog amberjack took the bait instead of a tuna!  Talk about spoiled.  Todd had all the luck on day 2 – boating two of the nicest yellowfins of the trip.

And if that wasn’t enough…immediately after boating that fatty – Todd goes back to work.  Grabs another chunk…pitches it over the side…and wham!

AND if that wasn’t enough – Todd went to work on a 200lb hammerhead shark shortly after that…while Dwight, Woody, and I took turns duking it out with bruiser amberjacks and the occasional smaller yellowfin. First world problems.  😉

We’re still in the process of sorting pictures and editing a bit of video together to capture the total craziness of this trip, and to be completely honest – the pictures STILL don’t do this place justice. Fishing with Hunter and Woody at Paradise Outfitters is a legendary experience. I literally can’t wait to get back up there and head out on another expedition. If you’re looking for a yellowfin tuna fishing charter in Venice, LA – do yourself a favor and check out Paradise Outfitters, or Capt. Josh at Tuna Town Fishing in Venice, LA

Blackfin Tuna fishing in Miami is an awesome experience.  While blackfins aren’t nearly as tough (or delicious) as their yellow finned or blue finned cousins, they are strong and fierce ocean predators. When schooled up and feeding aggressively, blackfin tuna provide a wild battle on light tackle and fight similarly to small yellowfin.  During the prime months for blackfin tuna fishing in Miami (typically April – June) the larger specimens can grow upwards of 30lbs and its common to catch several at a time off the kites.

Targeting blackfin tuna in Miami waters is a challenge because they are a highly migratory species and never stay in one place for very long.  Large schools of blackfins roam the coast in search of baitfish, typically following bluewater current rips in the 160′ – 220′ range. While kite fishing for blackfin tuna is the preferred method, there are a few tricks of the trade you should keep in mind if the goal is to boat big blackfins in the early  or late spring months.

Leverage Light Sensitivity

Often referred to as the “twilight tuna”, blackfins are notoriously light sensitive…almost more than any other tuna. Their eyes are large and comparable to that of yellowfin and longfin tuna, which means first light and last light conditions are best for targeting this species.  Tuna feed most effectively by staying deep and looking up to spot baitfish. They do this in part because light reflects off bait fish which hang near the surface, making them easier to see.  In low light situations, looking up at the surface of the water increases contrast, which means shadows and disturbance at the surface stands out with greater depth.

During prime season for blackfin, it’s common to hook several of these fish at one time off the kite baits…the fish will literally rocket themselves out of the water or across the surface and crash the baits with a vengeance. Tuna are “ram” feeders, which means they must use their speed to propel the bait down their gullet. This vicious attack makes it easier to hook them with circle hooks, but they do often miss the baits when moving at high speeds.  During low light conditions, their “aim” is actually better because its easier for them to see the bait.

If your deadset on targeting blackfin tuna in Miami waters, schedule your trip accordingly so you’re fishing first light (between 0545 and 0700) or last light (1730 – 1930). We’ve even caught a few while fishing at night for swordfish under a full moon.

Leader Makes a Difference

This is common sense for most anglers who target tuna, or any gamefish with exceptional eye sight – use the lightest flourocarbon leader possible. Typically, when we kite fish for sailfish, mahi-mahi, or kingfish we employ 40lb flourocarbon leader.  The diameter of the leader material is pretty thin, but strong enough to handle abrasive mouths or bills. When targeting blackfin tuna in Miami during the twilight hours, we use 30lb and occasionally 25lb flourocarbon leader – and it certainly makes a difference.

Tuna are tough creatures to begin with and underestimating their stamina is something that can come back to haunt you. Light tackle fishing for tuna is a challenge because you can’t pressure the fish like you normally would with heavy tackle.  Tuna pull all the way to the boat and will die fighting – this puts extra strain on your leader material and connections. While 20lb – 30lb mono will do the job, make sure your fluorocarbon leader of choice is high quality.  The strength and abrasion resistance of the material is critical when it will be under significant stress for an extended period of time. You can catch tunas using minimal drag pressure, there’s no need to bring the fish to the boat quickly unless there’s sharks in the area. With larger blackfins on lighter leaders, you have to compensate with the pressure exerted by the drag.

We recommend using seaguar or yo-zuri pink fluorocarbon for tuna fishing.  In our experience, these two brands perform well under all conditions and are thin enough to fool blackfun tunas with near perfect vision.

Back to Basics Live Chumming

While you can catch blackfins by fishing bluewater edges during low light conditions, live chumming DRAMATICALLY increases your odds.  Blackfins can see baits flickering at the surface from great distances – their eyes are tuned specifically to pick up on flickers of light emitted from panicked or injured baitfish.  In the late winter and spring months, there are massive schools of pilchards holding at the bait grounds off Miami – more than you could ever need.  At the start of each blackfin tuna trip, we spend at least an hour and a half loading all our bait wells to the brim with pilchards.  A few carefully placed cast net throws and you’ll be set for the day. The trick is to keep an entire well of bait dedicated specifically for chumming.

When you’re drift fishing, it’s wise not to dump massive amounts of bait into the water at once. Keep a slow steady line of bait over the side.  Maybe two or three “squeezed” pilchards tossed out into the spread every 30 seconds will do the job.  The goal is to create a steady stream of injured baits that will lead the fish to you as the current draws them away from the boat.  If you “squeeze” or gently crush the pilchards before throwing them into the water, they will flicker and flap more erratically – this is exactly the signal you want to send into the blue.  Toss your baits out into the spread – don’t just dump one or two over the side.  If you can keep a few baits flickering near your kite baits at all times, you’ll be in good shape.

Now – once you get a strike or two and have fish near the boat – that’s the time to start dumping bait.  Tuna will work in a big school to herd the bait into a tight ball. If you see fish busting near the boat, start pitching half a dozen at a time and keep it up until all your lines have been hit.  Tuna will devour all the baits which hit the water…their appetite knows no end. They will keep feeding as long as there is bait nearby and have little fear of the boat when they are fired up. If there are lots of tuna around the boat, you may want to kill the engines as sound can scare them away. Be sure to work the entire water column, as many larger fish will stay deep while smaller fish slam the surface.  Vertical jigs are perfect for this – so keep one ready at all times.

What an epic day. Conditions were sporty with a strong 18knt wind blowing straight out of the south east, but luck was certainly on our side. Our guest from Boston, MA was looking to get into something “big” and the ultimate goal was sailfish, but when you’re kite fishing in Miami – it’s hard to predict exactly what will wander into the spread. Bait at bug light was scarce this morning – a few rogue schools of pilchards were clinging tight to the bottom in about 20 feet of water.  Commercial boats were bailing mackeral, which certainly didn’t help our efforts.  After getting “macked” five times and losing our entire sabiki’s trying to catch threadfins, we switched up to throwing the net in an effort to black out the wells with pilchards.  Carlos made an epic toss, we dumped a few hundred pilchards in the well and off we went into a solid 3 to 5.

I decided to fish north yesterday after several slow trips down south.  We’ve fished Triumph reef and a variety of wrecks the last few trips with minimal success so it was definitely time for a change of pace.  We found bluewater in 190′ off the yellow can and the current was moving steadily.  Finding a decent amount of current off Key Biscayne was a refreshing change of pace. We deployed the spread and drifted into about 130′ before a large brown shape came meandering into the array of baits flickering helplessly on the surface.  The amount of brown sharks in the area the past few weeks has been staggering, so we didn’t think much of the fish as it chased the right middle bait around in circles for a bit…only to give up and eat the short bait.  The fish inhaled the pilchard,  gave a massive head shake (we were still thinking shark), and sounded.  While the “shark” fight was raging from the bow, a gaffer dolphin grabs another kite bait and after a few minutes we put him in the box. Our angler fought the fish for about 25 minutes before up pops one of the largest cobia we’ve seen this year!  I grab the leader, draw him slowly to the boat and Carlos slams the gaff.  The fish goes crazy tearing a massive gap in its back but we manage to haul him over the gunnel and onto the deck.  THUNK!

It was a true lunker of a cobia.  The fish went 53″ from the fork to the lip, 10″ wide at the fattest part of its head, and measured out with a 23″ girth! We didn’t have a scale big enough to weigh him but i’d venture the fish goes 50+lbs.

Energized for the day ahead we (after all it was only 10a.m.), we set up again off the can and made another long drift north towards Gov’t Cut.  Nothing. Despite live chumming and working the entire water column, nothing came to play.  We set out deeper and connected with another gaffer dolphin, but this time a BIG bull comes following it up to the boat!  Todd was quick with the jig but no bite.  We toss chummers and a pitch bait…but nothing.  The bull was obviously a bit too smart for our tricks.

With the sea conditions getting worse and our bait wells on the fritz, we settled into one more drift a bit deeper around 230′.  We drift into 190 before our bait well goes completely offline, at which point we begin chumming like crazy with pilchards.  By the time we hit 170′, a nice sailfish comes cruising into the spread and nabs the short bait on the right side.  I let him eat for a good 20 seconds and get tight!  ZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!! The fish goes blitzing around the boat.  Our angler fought this frisky sail for 24 minutes before Carlos could grab the leader.  It was our angler’s first sail so in the boat for a picture he came.

Still thrashing by the time we dunked him for revival, the fish kicked off strong and dashed into the blue.  We were now tossing around in 4 to 6 with slightly larger swells and decided to make a washing machine run back through Government Cut.

There’s been scattered reports of Cobia being caught between 60′ and 100′ the last few weeks, and if the current dies down once again it would definitely be worth spending some time cruising around inshore looking for schools of winter time Cobia. We are headed into the shop this friday for some maintenance but should be back in the water by the end of next week.  Hopefully the saifish bite won’t pick up to strong while we’re out of commission.

Tight Lines,

Capt. Charlie

The wealth of weather, atmospheric, and oceanographic data anglers have at their disposal is just staggering. Accurate weather data, sea surface temperatures, global positioning systems, and various oceanography tools provided by the U.S government and various third-party systems provide an opportunity to dial in on fish more consistently than ever before in sportfishing history.  Taking advantage of the data can be difficult, however, because there’s just so much of it!

While I was attending school at the University of Miami, I was fortunate to have friends who were active in the marine science programs. Their disciplines ranged anywhere from marine biology to oceanography – with their guidance I was able to hone a list of tools that professional marine scientists utilize regularly to understand environmental factors which influence fishing.  The most critical factors for finding fish include:

• Sea Surface Temperature
• Wind Speed / Wind Direction
• Sea Swell
• Current
• Tide
• Moon Phase
• Bait Concentrations
• Low Pressure Weather Patterns

While there are undoubtedly thousands of other elements which impact fishing, this seems to be the core set marine scientists use to understand when the “bite” is the best. It’s also enough of a start for professional fishing captains and recreational anglers alike to line up the “float plan” for the day ahead. While the importance of fishing in the right location based on the conditions can make all the difference – knowing what the conditions are in advance of your trip will help you make informed decisions about where/when the bite is likely taking place.

Using Sea Surface Temperature Data

There’s a variety of places to get sea surface temperature data, but one of my favorites is buoyweather.com. The quality of the data for the price of the service ($14.95 a month) is second to none in my opinion. When fishing offshore (or even inshore for that matter), understanding where thermoclines and temperature transitions occur can be a decisive factor in finding bait – which is almost always where gamefish can be found. Water temperature also influences where fish will be actively feeding (every species has their preference on water temperature as well).

The sea surface temperature tool from Buoyweather.com allows you to zoom in to the point where you can plot the temperature transition by GPS coordinates.  This is helpful in identifying where current is likely flowing and where bait may stack up.  Some baitfish, like flying fish, tend to “hug” warmer water temperatures, which is why when you’re trolling offshore – the spot where you start seeing flying fish explode out of the water is likely a decent a place to start working your spread. Warmer water also attracts krill which feed on algae and other microscopic particles that thrive on nutrient rich warm water at the suface – krill is the start of the food chain for most baitfish…and the cycle goes on from there. We’ve found the 74 degree to 75 degree water temperature to be a significant strike zone for Dorado, but that’s just an observation with no scientific basis.  Note the yellow temperature break is also the thinnest temperature line on the chart above.

Wind Speed and Wind Direction

This is the critical ingredient for kite fishing.  In the winter, strong NE winds bring bait and sailfish closer to shore.  The colder winds pushing down from the North seems to alert fish that it’s time to eat, which is why most kite fishermen in South Florida covet the wintertime NE wind. Wind direction also impacts your ability to position the boat when drift fishing – for example – north winds are terrible for sword fishing because they can stalemate your boat (or cause it to spin) when the current is pushing you north ( a mild south wind is considered best for swordfishing as it pushed you along with the current).

Understanding the direction of the wind is important because it helps to factor your drift.  If the wind will be pushing you inshore, it’s better to set up slightly deeper so you can deploy lines and work from deep to shallow. If the wind is blowing from the North, it may hold you against the current which means you won’t cover as much water when the current is weak. Wind can also be the determining factor for it being too rough to fish (we don’t venture out with customers if the wind is stronger than 20knots) – 20knot + winds from the SouthEast or South can make it challenging to even stand up in an open boat or make it offshore in the first place.

In addition to understanding large scale wind patterns, identifying the conditions in the area you’ll be fishing is paramount.  The National Data Buoy Center provides many locations where you can get real time weather conditions for free:

On most of our offshore fishing trips, we fish directly east or to the south of Fowey rocks, which makes this weather data invaluable for understanding what conditions we’re facing. Professional fishermen rely on buoy data like the information above to anticipate conditions and prepare accordingly.

Sea Swell Forecast

The determining factor for most fair weather (and foul weather) fishermen is the swell forecast. Swell forecasts are an important aspect of planning your day at sea.  If it’s calm in the morning but the swell forecast calls for 4 to 6 in the afternoon – it’s best to plan accordingly. While it’s nearly impossible to predict sea conditions with 100% precision, the swell forecast from buoyweather.com is superior to NOAA in my opinion. Understanding the pattern of the swells, as influenced by the wind, can help you determine what type of fishing will be most practical.  For example, kite fishing adrift with a high quality sea anchor isn’t so bad in 3 to 5 or 4 to 6 foot seas.  But trolling in those conditions, downsea direction or not, will beat you up.

This is invaluable information when you’re planning a fishing trip. The swell forecast has everything to do with anticipating the sea conditions you’ll be up against.  Changes in wind direction and sea conditions can also serve as an indicator of what time of day may be best to fish.

Wave height charts like the one above can also be helpful in understanding the direction of the swells and how long the condition may last.  You can zoom in very close with Buoyweather to help identify where the waves are the worst – a case for inshore fishing vs offshore fishing when the swells get too large for even the most seasoned crews.

Predicting Offshore Current

Current is the decisive factor in finding fish that are actively feeding. When the current is dead…so is the bite. The last few weeks have forced us to endure dead current off Triumph Reef and Fowey Rocks which is very frustrating. While there’s nothing you can do about the conditions, understanding where current exists offshore can help you to track down weed lines, rip currents, and bodies of water where pelagics are likely hunting for food. Surprisingly, there are very few tools which help you to identify currents with any degree of accuracy. One of the best i’ve found is available for free from UM/RSMAS:

The University of Miami/Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Sciences currently operates three WERA High Frequency radars in Crandon Park on Key Biscayne, Virginia Key and John U Lloyd Park on Dania Beach. The radars at Crandon Park transmit at 16MHz, Virginia Key and Dania Beach transmit at 12MHz and provide measurement of currents on the ocean’s surface over a large area of the ocean off Miami, FL. While the radar’s accuracy can be negatively impacted by strong winds and high waves, this technology is relatively accurate.  We use this tool to identify whether current may be strong close to the coast, which is typically the best condition for excellent fishing.

Using Tidal Information to Predict Fishing

Tide is a critical factor for inshore fishing, but also plays an important role in offshore fishing as well. Bait concentrations are heavily influenced by tidal conditions, and if you make the mistake of fishing for bait during a dead tide – you will likely fail. Tide impacts reef fishing more than offshore, but factoring the tide makes a big difference when you’re planning a day of offshore fishing out of Miami.  There are dozens of tide tools available, but my absolute favorite is saltwatertides.com.

Saltwatertides.com makes it easy to get several days worth of tide information for a variety of points across the South Florida region. No matter where you fish, this tool can help you to accurately identify when the tide change will take place. Knowing when the tide will rise and fall (or peak) makes all the difference in determining what time is best to fish a reef spot.

The Moon Phase and Fishing

It’s amazing to me that moon phase has so much to do with fishing in Miami. There are times when I literally feel like giving up on fishing a full moon (as we never seem to catch anything offshore during the day) but then I get surprised when the night time swordfish bite turns on and we hook multiple fish over the course of just a few hours. While the exact impact the moon has on fishing in Miami is not known, some of the more experienced Captains in the area have their favorite moon phase for targeting specific species.  For example, the full moon is typically best for targeting wahoo and snappers on the bottom.  We’ve found that the offshore bite typically slows down during a full moon because pelagic fish which feed at the surface are likely feeding all night due to improved visibility – and not very hungry during the day.

Moonconnection.com provides one of my favorite lunar calendars (pictured above) but there are dozens of tools like this online.  Some sites even provide fishing predictions based on the moon phase, but I have never relied on them with any consistency.  Over time, if you’re meticulous about taking notes during your fishing trips, you may start to notice patterns in what you catch based on the moon phase.  I’ve noticed that when the moon is most hidden, the fishing tends to be the best – matching up the strength of the current with the moon phase (by season) is the best technique for predicting when the bite will be hot year after year.

Finding the Bait with Fishing Forecasts

The “Ace in the Hole” for many professional fishermen who make their living chartering off the coast of Miami is Roffers Ocean Fishing Forecasting Service.  Roff’s provides comprehensive charts and detailed reports on where current eddy’s exist,, where bait is stacked up, and where pelagic fish are likely to be hunting for food.  The reports are often a saving grace when the bite is slow over several weeks time and can really help to dial in on productive areas.

In addition to a comprehensive chart which provides detailed GPS information on current eddy’s and bait hot spots, Roff’s provides a written report to help understand where the productive fishing is likely to take place.  The accuracy of these reports is impressive – i’ve used them a few times through the years with great success.  Roff’s does all the satellite data analysis for you and provides the actionable information you need to find the bite.  While these reports aren’t a “guarantee” that fishing will be amazing in a particular area – it certainly takes the guess work out of pulling multiple data sets together on your own. Roff’s employs experts who specialize in predicting fishing based on sea surface temperatures and dozens of other factors which impact recreational and commercial fishing.  It’s reliable intelligence for professional anglers.

Low Pressure Weather Patterns and Fishing

The age old myth that fish tend to feed best before a front is absolutely true.  Changes in barometric pressure seems to trigger a feed just before a substantial weather pattern moves in.  This gives you an opportunity to maximize a tight weather window when the fishing is likely to be hot. NOAA is really the best source of this data:

You don’t have to be a meteorologist to understand when a front is approaching. Based on the speed at which the front is approaching, the size of the front, and the direction it’s traveling you can identify when you can get that critical few hours of fishing time in before the front pushed through. One thing to bear in mind is the severity of the front – it’s not worth risking your neck if nasty squalls are about to push through.  While the fishing may be great, putting yourself or anglers in a compromising situation outweighs any hot bite that may occur. Consequently, we’ve found the fishing to be decent just after a front pushed through as well.

Yesterday’s sailfish bite was non-existent. We ran south to Triumph Reef to fish alongside the fleet competing in the 2013 Reef Cup.  We arrived to a strong NW wind, choppy seas, blue water…and no current. There must have been two dozen boats dragging a live ballyhoo buffet without one bite. We put up our spread anyway and drifted all the way to the Sir Scott without a single bite.  Not even a spooked goggle eye.   We picked up and ran to the Pioneer, but the wind died as soon as we dropped the sea anchor. Without the wind, we switched tactics, put out the flat lines and worked a nice current rip holding sea grass around 120′.

Fortunately, the current line held two floaters – a large 2X4 and an oil drum which had obviously been at sea for some time.  We caught small dolphin off the floaters but the school quickly disappeared. Making our way north, we found another edge in 150′ near the Ultra Freeze.  With the wind just strong enough to fly our ultra light kites, we managed to deploy the spread once again.  This time, the left middle bait gets slammed and a big Cow goes leaping into the distance.  Todd was quick with the camera and nabbed a few awesome aerial shots!

Hopefully with a bit more current the sailfish bite will pick up again soon.  The recent NorthEast winds and cold snap should get them fired up – looking forward to some more action in the next few days.

The sailfish bite was hit or miss today. Scattered reports to the North and South of sailfish bites crackled from the radio intermittently, but we held to our original gameplan to fish the stretch between ledbury and brewster reef. Our guests in town for the Orange Browl had high hopes of landing their first Miami Sailfish. With the tide and wind anything but in our favor, we bought a few gogs and made a dash south. We arrived to find a good portion of the fleet setup in the same region and set into our drift with some bad luck. While setting out the first long bait, the kite line snapped! We managed to retrieve the kite (one of the reasons I love lewis kites is that they’re equipped with floating spars) and retie quickly, but had to reset a few times to get the drift right.  Scattered reports of a sailbite in 150′ to the north of the sea can had us optimistic that fish would be moving through eventually.  We did manage to pick up a nice gaffer dolphin in the midst of formulating a gameplan.

With the fish on ice, we made a few more drifts but failed to connect. The sailfish bite between Fowey and the Sea Can was slow, but boats north of Government cut  (off the diamonds) were reporting multiple sailfish hookups anywhere between 130′ and 200′ (with one fish caught in 230).  We took our chances drifting in shallow to 145′ and it paid off.  One of the largest sailfish we’ve hooked this season engulfed a large bridled goggle eye on the long line! The fish made a blistering eastward run and was brought to the boat in 24 minutes…but not before Todd could capture a few more spectacular sailfish photos.

Our anglers were ecstatic to have caught their first Miami Sailfish…and a fat one at that.  This fish was easily in the 50# range and one of the largest we’ve brought to the boat in the last few weeks. The girth of the fish was amazing.

With the remaining hour and a half of the trip, the crew opted to hit the reefs and chum up a few yellow tails to complement their mahi mahi dinner. We made the trek down past Fowey to one of our favorite yellow tail and grouper spots…set up shop and in just a few minutes we had a good dozen yellow tails swirling behind the boat.  Bonitas beat us up to the point where we could hardly keep a line in the water without them stealing our baits. After releasing three or four boneheads, we decided to call it quits and head home.

Hot sailfish action is definitely right around the corner!

The sailfish have finally arrived in force off the coast of Miami. Our last few trips have produced multiple double header sailfish hookups, delighting anglers with spectacular aerial displays and blistering battles. Pilchards, threadfin herring, and cigar minnows are readily available at the bug light and both our morning and afternoon 1/2 day fishing trips have been very successful.

On the 28th of December Dustin, an Iraq War veteran from Michigan, joined us to catch his first Miami Sailfish. The morning started out slow, producing a single 12lb amberjack. It was difficult to find current strong south of Fowey, but we heard a few scattered reports of sailfish to the North, with one report of a quad hookup off Miami Beach. With no bites to show for three drifts, we motored North and set up in 190′ off the Sea Buoy. After our first drift produced nothing, we moved slightly to the south and were finally rewarded with a double header sailfish hookup! With Dustin being the only angler on board, our mate had to jump in on the action.

These fish would just not quit! The strength and stamina of Miami Sailfish never ceases to amaze me.  While the larger fish tend to make a dash for the horizon, the smaller specimens are clearly more agile and dance repeatedly in an effort to spit the hook. Dustin’s fish made it to the boat first and with a quick grab of the leader it was official. We turned the fish loose to fight another day.

Carlos fought his fish for another 15 minutes before we could grab the leader and snap a few quick release photos. With a strong East wind, we had drifted in to about 90′ by the time we turned the Sail loose! Most of our bites have been between 180′ and 200′ the last few days…any trace of current seems to be where the fish are moving. The bite seems to be North of Key Biscayne for the most part, but sailfish are highly migratory and that could change in a matter of hours.

Fortunately for us, that wasn’t case on the 29th of December when our favorite junior angler joined us for a 1/2 day sailfishing trip. While we were prepping the boat at the marina – all we heard on the radio were groans and moans about the slow morning bite.  Most charter boats fishing off the Monument Buoy and Fowey were coming up empty handed, which was not inspiring to say the least. We left the dock at 1:30 and headed straight for the bug light to load up on big pilchards which have been holding steady there for a few days. Bait wasn’t exactly thick once we arrived, but we did mange to sabiki a few dozen pilchards and one of the fattest cigar minnows i’ve ever seen. I’m mad at myself for not taking a picture of it because its doubtful we’ll ever see one that size again – the cigar minnow probably weighted just under 1/2 lb and was about the size of a small cucumber!

We set up for our first drift in 230′, a bit deeper than we prefer but there was hardly any current and bluewater felt like the right move. Our first drift produced nothing, and with a southeast wind we were being pushed offshore.  We picked up in 250′ and headed in to ~ 190 where we found a trace of current and some sparse grass. We put the monster cigar minnow on the long, a pilchard on the mid, and as we were about to put the short in the water a HUGE sailfish starts tailwalking behind the boat!  We all flip as we realize it’s trying to eat the cucumber size cigar minnow! The tailwalking continued for about four seconds before the bait went flying from its mouth and our hearts sank. Remarkably, the cigar was still alive with a hook in its back…it was our mistake…we had not bridled the monster cigar minnow in our haste to deploy the lines.  🙁

We pulled in the midwater rods and set up again in 200′, just outside the light grass line which ran as far north as we cold see. About 15 minutes of soaking the baits once again and the mid gets slammed! A nice sail erupts behind the boat and starts snaking his way across the surface.  This fish was ferocious and put on one of the most epic aerial displays we’ve seen in a while.  Capt. Todd was quick with the Canon and scored some of the best sailfish pictures of the season.

Our junior angler and his father took turns fighting this fish for 45 minutes before bringing him boat side. This Miami Sailfish had no quit in it!  Even after the fight, the fish was still thrashing and frisky at the boat! We brought him on board briefly for a quick trophy shot since this was the last sailfish of 2012 and then sent him home carefully, making sure the fish was fully revived.

Another epic day of sailfishing in Miami came to a close and we headed home through Government Cut. As the weather cools, the sailfishing in Miami is heating up. We are stoked for another amazing year on the water and look forward to sharing the Miami Sailfish experience with our friends and customers this coming year.  Now is the best time to catch sailfish in Miami and our schedule for the month of January is filling up fast!

Happy New Year everyone!

Tight Lines,

Capt. C.

Capt. Ray describes the history of kite fishing with Fly Navvaro of Fly Zone Fishing

A Miami Sailfish Caught While Kite Fishing

Some of the absolute best kite fishing of the year is about to happen. Several cold fronts have pushed through in the last few weeks and the temperature has taken a dip a few times in a row. Jumbo threadfin herring are piling up at the bait grounds and the sailfish bite is just starting to pick up.

While maintenance kept us onshore for a few days, I took the time to inventory our kite fishing equipment and thought it would be an excellent opportunity to provide some direction on kite fishing tips, rigging techniques, and our most essential gear for the impending sailfish season.  Kite fishing is absolutely my favorite ways to catch sailfish off Miami in the wintertime…and it’s definitely a skill set which keeps you on your toes.

The  rigs you use are equally as important as the hardware – and there are lots of choices when it comes to big league kite fishing gear. For that matter, breaking fragile (and expensive) kite fishing equipment  is inevitable and in most instances alot more goes wrong than right when it comes to flying two kites in rough seas.

We’ve learned to kite fish in practically any fishable condition, and my goal here is to illustrate several of the techniques we’ve utilized with great success through the years.

The Standard Miami Kitefishing Rig

This was the original kite fishing rig that has been used since the late 70s (and variations well before that). Essentially, it requires minimal rigging in a world where technical know-how can mean the difference between hooking fish in tough sea conditions or going home empty handed. The rig is simple, effective, and reliable.  It can be fished from a spool or a penn senator and doesn’t require much effort to use it effectively.

Now first of all, don’t use Aftco products when you’re setting up your kite fishing rig. I know its a popular brand and lots of recreational anglers use their kite fishing gear effectively – but it will fail on you with time and the release clips are worthless IMHO.  Whether you’re rigging a line with two or three baits – you need to use high quality release clips, a strong main line, and the strongest swivels you can get. Kite Hunter and Blacks make excellent kite rigging kits that you can buy at just about any reputable tackle store in Miami, Florida.  If you invest in quality release clips and strong swivels, you increase the likelihood of the rig lasting you an entire season or more.

The best way to set up this rig is to purchase a kite line rigging kit like this, buy some strong braided line ( I like dacron personally, but it weighs down the kite in light wind scenarios) and then follow these steps:

1. Spool your kite reel with at least 100 yards of braid
2. Pull 80 ft of line off the reel (measure this carefully) and then cut it (keep track of the 80 ft mark
3. Tie in the smallest swivel using a uni knot or a tuna knot
4. measure another 60 ft and then cut the line again – tie in your second swivel (the medium size swivel in the kit)
5. Measure another 60 ft and then cut the line again – tie in the largest of the three swivels
6. Wind everything back onto the reel, slide on the release clips in the specified order (clip with the largest pre-drilled hole goes first).
7. Slide a tri bead on the line and then tie on the snap swivel (this will be the kite connection – tie the strongest knot you can think of).

Professional Charter kite fishing rig

If you’ve chartered offshore before or have fished with seasoned kite fishing pros on larger sportfishers you’ve likely observed the impressive methods a skilled crew utilizes to run the lines. Most large charter boats and pro-rigged center consoles fish two kites with up to six baits, flying kites off the riggers using stainless steel rings to keep the spread wide and controlled. It takes some doing to build a set up like this for yourself, not to mention a full inventory of kite fishing equipment and expensive electric reels (most popularly the Daiwa Tanacom Bull or Krystal XL 601). Still, there are many lessons to be learned from this orientation and if you’re up for the challenge, you can build a tournament winning spread for just under $3000.00.

If you’re dead set on fishing like the pro’s, you will need to invest in the gear first.  Rigging the kite lines is essentially the same, but the orientation of the gear within the boat and how you run the lines is the key difference. Aside from an assortment of kites for different wind conditions, you will need to mount two electric reels near your riggers.  Most charter boats mount holders adjacent to the outriggers so the kite line can be passed through a stainless steel ring which is long line clipped to a segment of the outrigger line. When flying your kites off the riggers, the trick is to hold the kite with your hand while sliding the stainless steel ring up the outrigger line so its away from the boat.

Once the boat is positioned into the wind, you can stand at the stern of the vessel and extend your arm with the kite, holding it by the cross bracket at the back.  Once you catch the wind the kite will swing away from the boat and begin flying back behind the boat.  If you weighted the kite properly so it will fly out away from the boat in the direction of the rigger, you’ll be in good shape. It looks something like this:

Your kite fishing rods must be positioned in a uniform holder or mount in the middle of the boat – or from stainless triple rod (or double if you’re fishing two baits) rod holder mounted inside the boat. Most charter boats use an orientation like this:

This allows you to manage up to six rods once they are fully deployed.  The long line goes out first and must be clipped into the first release clip facing away from you (think logically about how the line will flow most naturally out and away from the boat). While keeping the long line rod  in free spool (with the clicker on), slowly let out the kite line so the bait carries out and away from the boat.  Essentially, you’re repeating this process for the rest of your spread…over and over again. Once you finish putting out one side of the spread, put out the other side and you’re all set to manage six kite lines at once. Good luck!

Capt. Ray explains Kite Line & Clip Placement

Tournament Kite Fishing Rigging

Tournament kite fisherman are maniacs about rigging.  Every professional crew has a slightly different way of doing things…and each crew will tell you they do it the best. From the knots they use, to the swivels, to the size of the weights (even the corks) each little detail plays an important role in how a bait will present when deployed.  Remember, the overall goal here is to present a very frisky bait at the surface without the fish really being able to see the leader while keeping the hook exposed in a way that is most likely to set when a fish grabs hold and makes a dash for the horizon. There’s a few subtle tricks i’ve learned fishing with different crews through the years, so here’s a few tips that i’ve picked up along the way:

• Use Fluorocarbon
  • Now this may seem like a no-brainer in a tournament environment, but you’d be shocked at how many Captains are so cheap they won’t invest in this stuff.  We ALWAYS fish flourocarbon leaders on our kite lines…it makes a tremendous difference. Yo-Zuri Pink Fluorocarbon, particularly, is completely transparent in the water. This gives you the upper hand in eliminating the leader material from the list of variables that might spook a shy sailfish.  Typically, we use 30lb or 40lb fluoro when kite fishing for sailfish – this is strong enough to handle the pressure from the fish but light enough to be virtually invisible in the water. Make sure to use perfection loops or uni loops when connecting your hook and making a loop to the swivel on the kite line.
• Bridle Big Baits
  • In tournament conditions, it’s likely you will be fishing goggle eyes or big threadfin herring.  In the Keys and off Jupiter to West Palm they will also use ballyhoo.  Make sure you can bridle a bait quickly using super strong bridle bands.  Use a fresh pack…once saltwater gets into the bridle band pack they quickly deteriorate and you don’t want bridles popping on you when fish are pulling at them.  You have to be gentle and swift when you’re bridling a bait – it’s the most effective way to keep the bait healthy and the hook exposed. Sailfish chase the bait around before they eat it, which usually presents a slight opportunity for the bait to freak out and occasionally break free from its bridle.  Take the time to learn how to bridle a bait effectively and you’ll be glad you did when your hookup ratio begins increasing.
• Be meticulous about weights on the kite line
  • Its important to use the right amount of weight on the kite leaders for the wind condition you’re fishing. While it might be an arbitrary debate in some instances, using the right amount of weight to “balance” the line with the wind has everything to do with how effectively you present your baits at the surface.  Too much weight and the bait can’t swim naturally…not enough and the line gets blown around and its difficult to keep your bait in the water. No weight at all and, well, its nearly impossible to really control the bait in any wind scenario. The trick here is to make sure your weights get progressively smaller.  Use high quality barrel weights that are not jagged on the edges (that way you won’t chafe the line, weakening it) and place a tri bead between the bottom of the weight and the knot to the swivel. Your short line should use the smallest possible weight you can fit on the line (bearing in mind its doubled). I prefer to use minimal weights for my kite lines unless the wind is really blowing hard…but its a balancing game. Buy a series of barrel weights up to 1 ounce and and experiment with variations to see what gives you the most control.  It can be a pain re-rigging different weights in varying sea conditions, but eventually you will find a balance that works right for you.  If you’re fishing big heavy baits like goggle eyes, you can get away with minimal weight…but if you’re fishing pilchards…you have to compensate. Tournament teams swap out weights on the kite lines depending on the wind of the day…so don’t be afraid to rerig each time you head out. The extra effort can make a big difference in your presentation.
• Use high visibility line markers
  • It can get tough to see the line markers after they wear down. Swap these out regularly.  most pro teams use the smaller egg shaped corks because they don’t put up much resistance in the wind or water during the retrieve.  They also reflect more light when they’re freshly painted in neon pink – the brighter the better. Steer clear of the using ribbon on the line – it can tangle and the flapping can actually disturb fish that are rising to the surface to eat the bait (looks like a bird fluttering above the surface). Do not use weighted corks – these are clumsy and cannot be modified depending on the wind condition.  I like to keep all my corks the same color but some anglers prefer to fish certain colors for the long, mid, and short so they can easily pick them out when a trike occurs. It’s a matter of preference…just make sure you use something BRIGHT that can be seen from a significant distance regardless of where the sun is.
• Use stainless steel split rings instead of ceramic
  • While the performance of the rings is basically identical…stainless/aluminum split rings have one great quality over their ceramic counterparts – they dont break! When a ceramic ring breaks, you have to rerig the kite line before you can use it again…which can cost you time when the bite is on.  The owner stainless rings are small, smooth, and don’t bust.  You can use them over and over again and they will not where out.  It’s a subtle trick but all the pro teams are using these.
• Use wax thread for kite spacers instead of swivels
  • The most common thing to break on a kite fishing rig are the spacer swivels used to deploy the release clips. Salt water + constant pressure will eventually wear away on the strength of the spacer swivels to the point where they will break. You can usually get by for a season if you’re not fishing every week – but in a tournament scenario this will cost you everything. If a kite line breaks, you lose your kite, your clips, your baits get tangled and you cost yourself an hour or more – not something you can afford to do if you’re fishing competitively. In order to prevent this from happening, most tournament crews remove the swivels from the occasion and use wax thread wound over the line to pass through the release clips.  Essentially, you’re wrapping wax thread to different thicknesses around the line where you would normally place your spacer swivels. This is done by measuring out the intervals of line on the reel and then suspending the segment between a “dummy” reel and the actual kite reel. The short spacer gets four to six wraps of wax thread, the middle gets six to eight, and the long (last one) gets eight to ten wraps. By the time you’re all said and done – you’ll have three spiraled wax slugs where the swivels would normally be – then its a matter of smoothing them out over time so they pass easily through the release clips. There are pro rigging shops in Miami that will do this for you or you can likely pay a mate on a professional boat to set you up for a rigging fee. With a bit of practice you’ll get it…we are considering putting together a video on how to do this and will probably film the next time we rig our kite lines.

Gerry Rigged Kite Fishing Rig When All Hell Breaks Lose

It’s bound to happen at some point.  Your kite line will snap, you will dunk a kite, a release clip will break, or something will prevent you from getting your kite rig deployed when you need it the most.  When it comes to getting back in action quick – you can’t always take the time to rig things properly. Ingenuity can be  saving grace on the water and your nearest tackle store might be miles and miles away – not to mention you’re likely in the middle of the ocean when a kite rig fails.  There are lots of strategies to get back in action, but here’s a few tips that we’ve used to improvise our way to getting a kite rig back in the air:

• One of your swivels broke but you were able to salvage the kite, line, and have spare clips
  • So you obviously don’t have time to respool an entire kite reel while you’re at sea, but you’ve got a kite, some release clips, and a bunch of frisky baits in the well.  How in the hell are you supposed to keep the release clips separated and send them out on the line? The best thing to do is dig into your terminal tackle and find some split shot. Crimping a split shot on the line is actually a decent way to space out the release clips and keep them in place on the line without having to tie the swivels back in.  If you lost a lot of line when the swivel broke and you don’t have much left on the reel, this technique allows you to control the distance between the release clips – so you can fish two, or even just one bait in a pinch.  You do have to manually remove them when you’re bringing the line back in…but hey…it works.
• “I don’t have any split rings for my kite lines!”
  • That’s your bad – you forgot this one critical ingredient at the tackle store.  Not to worry, there are other pieces you can use to make this happen.  Instead of a split ring, try a barrel swivel or a three way swivel.  Thread the line through one end of the swivel and put the other over the pin in the release clip.  Not the smoothest way to make things happen but its better than clipping the line into the clip by itself (its most likely to tangle with the main line that way).  We’ve also used rigging wire spun into a spacer with a loop at either end (think christmas ornament hanger with closed ends).  All you really need is something that will allow line to pass through smoothly and can be clipped into the release pin.
• “My Kristal Electric Reel broke (or your power failed) and I can’ retrieve my Kite Line!”
  • The bigtime downside to the Kristal electric reel is that it doesn’t have a handle.  So if you lose power or the reel fails – you are forced to retrieve the kite line by hand.  But even though your reel is busted or you don’t have power – you’re day of kite fishing isn’t over yet.  Odds are you have a spare leader spool in the boat somewhere.  Grab that leader spool and start winding.  Even though it’s slow and tedious – it prevents the line from stacking up on the deck and will keep the line clean and knick free. Once you’ve got the kite line wound on the spool, you can secure the spool by wrapping it around a cleat.  Now you can deploy your kite line and keep it at whatever interval you want. It’s a terrible way to go about things but its better than not kite fishing at all!

Salvaging a Damaged Fishing Kite

Fishing kites are anything but cheap.  And the fishing kites that are cheap are worthless.  You should be buying SFE or Bob Lewis kites only – anything else just isn’t up to par. The quality of the fabric and the strength of the spars is what you should invest in…anything made from cheap parts will do what all cheap things do in time – break.

It’s inevitable that your fishing kites will suffer damage.  These are extremely fragile pieces of equipment tossed into one of the harshest fishing environments available.  Wind pressure, line pressure, corrosive saltwater, being tossed around in rough seas…there are dozens of scenarios that can lead to a kite breaking.  In most cases, it’s the spars that will break on you first…and in most instances its difficult to repair these.  The best thing to do is to keep spare kite spars on the boat in a durable tube – but hey, sometimes you’ve got to work with what you’ve got.  Here’s the most common “breaks” your kite will endure during its service and a few tips to get them back in the air:

• My Kite Spar Broke
  • If its an SFE or Bob Lewis Fishing Kite – replacements are readily available…but keeping a kite spar repair kit on board is a great idea.  My kite spar repair kit consists of super glue (zap a gap), scotch tape, waterproof medical tape, and thin twine. If a Kite spar fractures, you have to fasten a splint to maintain the integrity of the spar. Line up the fracture the best you can – in most instances the break will fit back together.  Seal it up tight with super glue then wrap the twine around it nice and tight. Once the super glue begins to set, the twine will hold in place and begin to stiffen up. Now wrap the waterproof medical tape or scotch tape around the “splint”.  Put an additional coating of super glue over the tape to make sure it holds tight.  Once it dries the splint will be light, strong, and thin enough to go back into place and get back in the air. Ultimately  you will need to replace the spar, but this is a reliable on the spot technique to repair a spar when the nearest tackle store is very very far away.
• My Bridle Line got Cut or Snapped
  • In the off chance this happened, it’s important to keep the length of the line which broke the same.  If you tie a knot, it will likely consume more line and those bridle lines were measure to a very specific length before they were tied off. The best thing to do in this instance is to lay out the line as if it were in the air (don’t just let it dangle). Gently hold the back of the kite and hold the bridle swivel tight to see the proportional length of the line. Using a blood knot – tie two additional segments of line to either end of the break.  Leave some length to work with – you can always trim it down.
  • The other option here is to use a very very thin strip of tape to join the two pieces back together temporarily. These strips have to be very thin (think sandwich) otherwise they will flap in the wind and will throw off the kite’s ability to fly straight. In the past, we took a strip of duct tape and cut it in thirds, then used a third strip, laid the two lines as close as they were before (barely touching) then folded over the tape.  This worked for the interim but made the bridle flap and buzz a bit.  We had to counterweight the kite using split shot on the opposite side.
• I have a tear in the kite!
  • This can be a deal breaker.  If the tear in the kite is larger than two inches – you’re pretty much sunk. You can’t stitch it back together and using tape on the backside of the kite (side facing away from the wind) will cause a “pinch” that will make the kite spin and hit the water. If the tear is small, the best thing to do is use flexible gauze like tape (available at CVS – we carry a small spool in our repair kit).  This tape is porous like the kite fabric itself but strong enough to deflect most of the wind.  When you apply a “patch” for a kite, it’s important to do so on a flat surface.  If the fabric is wrinkled it will make the kite fly irregularly and will damage other areas of the kite.  Basically, once you tear a kite its pretty much done for, but you can salvage it for a day with this technique.  Try to keep the patch as small and evenly placed as possible to reduce the amount of surface area it covers. You will likely have to counterbalance with split shot to make up for this. If its a light wind day – forget it!
• My Kite Spirals Like Crazy After Taking a Dive
  • Even the most seasoned kite fishermen dunk a kite once in a while.  It usually happens while its being deployed or when the wind dies. It’s unavoidable and will happen eventually. When you do dunk a kite, its imperative that you wash it off thoroughly with freshwater and allow it to dry completely before putting it back in the air.  The salt immersion is usually what leads to the deterioration of the fabric, ruining the aerodynamics of the kite in the first place.
  • The first thing to do if your kite is spiraling out of control is attempt to counter balance it with split shot.  In most instances, the kite is spiraling because it is stretched or the wind does not flow evenly over the fabric for one reason or another. When wind escapes over one side of the kite more than the other, it will rock back and forth in the air and will dive to one side or another.  Counter balancing with split shot must be done incrementally, which means you have to place one or two split shot at a time to make sure it pulls in the opposite direction of the uncontrolled spin. Try affixing small split shot as close to the corner as possible on either side of the spar, and then add additional split shot as needed on the side of the kite (at the corner) where you want it to pull.  Using the right amount of split shot can correct an uncontrolled spin…too much will cause the problem to switch sides. Most charter boats or tourney boats that fish two kites use split shot on the corners of their kites to increase the width of the spread and keep the kites well separated…use this principle to your advantage if your kites are spinning when you’re deploying them.  If you’re using a kite that’s too light for the wind, it will spin no matter what you do, which is why its important to have a kite that is rated for the wind speed you’re fishing.

Rigging Kite Leaders with the Pros

The leader you use is actually the most critical ingredient in the entire process of kite fishing for sailfish off Miami. The material must be strong, durable, and shock resistant. You never know exactly what might grab a kite bait when you’re fishing off Miami, Florida.  From Swordfish to Blue Marlin…it’s happened.  On several occasions, these encounters have been caught on film and well documented.  When we rig our kite leaders, we plan on catching the fish of a lifetime.  Every leader is crafted meticulously when we are not rushed, because it could mean the difference between a stunning victory and a devastating defeat. The knots which form loops are the most critical but investing in the RIGHT materials for the situation is quintessential.

Kite Fishing Leader Material – Fluorcarbon vs Monofilament Kite Leaders

• Fuorocarbon
  • Buy it.  Buy lots of it.  Buy as much as you can afford. When I started in Kitefishing, the boats I worked on and fished recreationally used mono because it was cheaper and they went through ALOT of leaders.  I started bringing my own Fluorocarbon on trips because I preferred to fish it – and it made a difference almost every time.  It is more durable than mono, can withstand some teeth abrasion (whereas mono can afford none), doesn’t stretch as much as mono, and it’s almost completely translucent in the water. It gives you the ability to present a frisky bait in a natural state without any reflection from the leader. Sailfish and Tuna have big eyes, which means they can see just about anything in the water within range of their mouth.  Sailfish and Tuna fishing experts all agree that fluorocarbon, as light as possible, will increase your catch ratio. The preferred brands are Seaguar and YoZuri – although Mamoi and Ande are fine alternatives. For kite fishing, it’s best to use 30lb or 40lb test – although some anglers fish lighter leaders when pelagics are being extra picky.
• Monofilament
  • Tride and true, readily available, affordable, and generally resilient leader material that has been a staple in offshore fishing for decades. It’s a suitable leader material for dolphin, sailfish, tuna, and just about anything else without teeth. Once you step into the toothy category (wahoo or kingfish for example) fishing monofilament on your kite leaders is risky business. The advantage to fishing monofilament is that it has excellent elasticity – it acts as a buffer, a strong shock leader that can withstand violent headshakes and blistering runs. Keeping a spool of pre-rigged monofilament kite leaders is a necessity for offshore fishing…and if you’re targeting dolphin on the kite its certainly standard issue rigging.  We prefer to fish monofilament for dolphin on pitch rods and utilize it regularly for general purpose fishing.  It does cut down on costs significantly when you go through lots of leaders but can also deteriorate with time (especially when it sits in a saltwater environment all the time).

Essential knots for Creating Kite Leaders

Kite Fishing Hooks

This is often  subjet of great debate and selecting the right hook for the conditions or target species can make all the difference. For most general purpose kite fishing, a 6/0 or 7/0 circle hook is used. The Mustad Demon Circle is the most widely utilized tournament hook but Owner and Gamakatsu also find their way into the mix. The advantage to fishing circle hooks on kite lines is that you can let the fish run with the bait and there’s often a significant amount of line between you and the fish.  Reeling like a maniac to get tight on a running fish leaves alot of time for a J hook to fall out of the fish’s mouth, and still requires you to set the hook once you get tight.  With a circle hook, you can pretty much just wind till you’re tight and the fish will be hooked in the corner of the mouth.

Picking the right hook for the species you’re targeting is a crucial point of success, because when fish eat kite baits they are usually moving very fast.  If you’re kite fishing for tuna, for example, J hooks are often preferred because they are likely to set deep inside the fish (tuna are ram feeders – they use speed to inhale the bait since they can’t exactly swallow).  Sailfish on the other hand are not usually aggressive feeders – they rise up to the bait and engulf it…then run like crazy when they realize something isn’t right.

The hook you select for your kite leader should also match the bait you’re fishing.  Using a small circle hook on a medium or large sized goggle eye provides alot of opportunity for the bait to get stolen or cut off. While the age old rule of “match the hook to the bait” still applies here, you also have to consider the species you’re targeting and that particular species’ feeding habits.

Bridling Live Baits

This is a technique which takes some practice but makes for an improved presentation in the water. Bridling a live goggle eye or jumbo threadfin also improves the life span of the bait as it’s less strenuous for the hook to be resting on the bait’s back as opposed to constantly pulling and tearing into flesh. Some baits are hearty and you don’t neccesarily need to do this (big pilchards for example and goggle eyes are troopers when it comes to surviving with a hook in their back), but bridling a bait also helps keep the hook exposed – allowing for a more solid hookset. When a fish swallows a bait that has a bridle rigged hook, the sharp point of the hook is completely exposed and more likely to set properly.

Regardless of the technique you use to bridle a bait, the trick is to do this fast.  As quickly as possible.  Get the bait back into the water swiftly in order to maximize its chance of remaining frisky on the leader. Pro kite fishermen can bridle a bait in under five seconds and have it deployed in the water.

How to bridle a goggle eye

How to bridle a threadfin herring

While many professional kite fishermen employ a variety of tactics to affix the bait to the kite leader, a bridle rig is a surefire way to increase your hookup ratio.  Use super strong bridle bands, a sharp rigging needle, and master the technique.  After you’ve bridle rigged baits about 100 times – you’ll be an expert!

Which Kite to Use for the Wind?

It’s a bad feeling to see a kite buckle because the wind is too strong, or to see a kite gradually fall out of the sky because it’s too heavy for a light breeze. It is critical to use a kite purposed specifically for the wind you are fishing. While there are dozens of manufacturers who produce an entire selection of kites rated for particular wind speeds – you will need a set.  Even if a fishing kite claims it can be flown in all conditions – this is rarely the case.  You have to keep a full selection of kites available to fish any wind condition.  Here’s the best selection of kite’s we’ve found for specific wind conditions.

Light Wind Fishing Kite

My absolute favorite light wind fishing kite is the Bob Lewis Xtra-Light. This kite uses a white fabric, weighs basically nothing, is smaller than the SFEs, and has floats on the back of the spars.  It is easy to deploy and can suspend two – three baits in a 5 to 8 knot wind with no trouble at all.  A gentle breeze is enough to get this kite in the air…and to keep it aloft. While it’s fragile and anything more than a 8 knot wind will cause it to “pinwheel” and crash – it’s an ideal kite for one of those days where the breeze is subtle and somewhat inconsistent.

Light to Medium Wind FIshing Kite

When you’re fishing a wind of 10 to 15 knots, it’s hard to find something better than an SFE all purpose kite. The red and green kite’s are interchangeable – there is no distinct difference between them at this time. SFE kites use a quick dry fabric as well, so if you do happen to dunk a kite it will be ready to deploy in just under 15 minutes. These kites are made very sturdy – strong spars and a relatively tough center piece which connects the spars.  The craftsmanship on these kites separates them from the rest of the manufacturers – take one glance at the corners and you’ll see why.  While these kites are expensive at $100 – $120 a piece, they are an excellent an investment and a must have for kite fishing in Miami, Florida. These Kites can also be fitted with a Kite Thong so you can easily attach a balloon on light wind days – or days when the wind is basically non existent.

Medium to Heavy Wind Fishing Kite

The SFE’s will get the job done in this situation but it’s about the extent of their wind rating.  If its blowing a steady 13 to 17 knots – you’ll be in pretty good shape and this kite will preform exceptionally well…but if the wind picks up to above 20knots…it’s too much pressure.  You can adjust the bridle to make the kite fly higher and handle the wind more effectively, but we’ve seen them buckle in 20knots…and that’s not a good time. It’s a fine line once you hit the 20knot wind speed…as it’s hardly enough to keep the hurricane force kite’s in the air, but a little too much for the SFE Green or Red.

Heavy Wind Fishing Kites

If you’re extremely persistent in heavy wind fishing offshore, these Kites are necessary. If you’re game, big seas can bring solid sailfish bites in the winter. Reports of quad sailfish bites in rough seas are consistent in the wintertime and if you fish professionally you have to go when the customer wants to go. The SFE Extra Heavy 52 hole kite is difficult to get in the air when the winds are less than a steady 20knots, but will fly in literally any condition beyond 20 knots.  This kite is designed to withstand wind gusts of 40mph, which is basically fishing in a tropical storm. While you may never find yourself fishing in 25 to 30 knot winds as the seas which accompany those gusts often exceed 8 ft – if you fish consistently in 20knot to 25 knot winds, this kite is worth the investment.

Buying Fishing Kites

You get what you pay for when you’re buying fishing kites.  There are dozens of manufacturers delivering quality products on the market today, but if you go the cheap route you will pay the price in performance. Kites manufactured by Aftco and Tigress do not perform well in my experience.  The Aftco material is basically plastic, stiff, and cheaply made (which is why its the least expensive fishing kite you can buy).  The Tigress kite, while made out of fabric, wanders back and forth no matter how you counterbalance it with split shot. Again, if you’re planning on kite fishing on a regular basis, it’s important to invest in quality fishing kites that can stand up to harsh conditions and the inevitable user error.

It all really boils down to investing in Bob Lewis kites for light wind applications and SFEs for general use in 15knots for more. Lewis brand recently launched an improved model in both Extra Light and Light wind models which fly extremely well in anything less than 10knots. in 10 to 15, SFE’s perform flawlessly (Green or Red cloth) and when the wind kicks up over 20knots – the 52 Hole SFE will hold its own.

You can expect to pay ~ $110 for a Bob Lewis Kite or an SFE All Wind Kite.  You will need to purchase these from a quality tackle store like Capt Harrys or Crook and Crook.  Bass Pro does not carry SFE kites, at least in MIami they don’t.  Bob Lewis Kites are available just about everywhere fishing kite’s are sold (they basically perfected the technique in the first place). Buying online is a great option, but bear in mind these kites are fragile and shipping is something to consider.  Occasionally you can find used fishing kites for sale on craigslist or the Florida Sportsman Forums, but make sure you know what you’re buying. Fishing kites endure tough conditions during their lifetime…and salt will take its toll.  Some kites are doomed to never fly again once saltwater corrodes the fabric, which is why they must be rinsed thoroughly if they take a swim.

The bottom line is, invest in quality fishing kites and you will reap the rewards!

Kite Fishing Electric Reels that last vs ongoing Kite Fishing Reel Repair

There’s really not much debate remaining about the “best” electric kite fishing reel on the market today.  The Daiwa Tanacom Bull is the most commonly  utilized electric reel for kite fishing by the Miami charter fishing fleet.

This reel is basically bomb proof and doesn’t die. It has the durability of a DeWalt power drill and a rotor which does not quit.  When hooked up to a power source, it will run continuously and does not over heat.  Eventually, after heavy use, the drags will wear out, but the drive mechanism is solid. While you may never use its multitude of pre-programmed settings (like jigging), this reel is designed to handle punishment and keep going. It also has a level wind which keeps the spool even (unlike the Kristal counter parts) The other unique feature to this reel is that it has a handle…sounds basic right?  Makes a huge difference when the power goes out! Even when you don’t have power, you can still manually retrieve the kite line and that can save a day of fishing.

Kristal Electric Reels where the mainstay in the kite fishing industry before the Daiwa’s hit the market. The XL 601 was the most commonly used electric kite fishing reel, but these reels are poorly manufactured and tend to burn out rather quickly. The drags are not built to take inordinate pressure over time and the motors burn out easily if you put stress on them.  They are variable speed, but they are large, bulky reels that do not have a level wind. The price of Kristal electric fishing reels is the only thing that makes them attractive.  They are a 1/3 less than the Daiwa’s which is a significant factor if you’re on a tight budget.

Aside from electric reels, its always a good idea to keep a tried and true penn senator on board rigged with two release clips. Having a manual kite reel on board can save a day of fishing when your kite line snaps, an electric reel goes overboard (could happen!), or a drag mechanism burns out and you can’t retrieve your kite line. There’s something to be said for pure mechanical reels – and that something is “reliability”.

Kite Fishing Rods – Which one should you buy?

This is a matter of preference in most instances, but every rod manufacturer will tell you theirs is “the best”. Some professional kite fishermen swear by Biscayne Rods, others won’t touch anything other than Key Largo Custom. If you ask Tom Greene of Custom Rod and Reel – he’ll tell you straight up his hand made rods are the best in the industry and anything less is a waste of time. Both Capt. Harrys and Crook and Crook produce excellent kite fishing rods in a variety of sizes/weights.  So what’s the real deal on picking a set of kite fishing rods that will handle the test of time and provide the ability to subdue a sailfish without breaking the bank? Well, the solution is simple – buy the best quality blank you can afford as long as its 7′.  🙂

We fish Key Largo Custom Rods and Tom Green Custom Rods almost exclusively. In my opinion, these rods provide enough rigidity to put leverage on sailfish without feeling like you’re draggin the fish to the boat. They are responsive high quality blanks fitted with Aftco and Fuji guides that handle just about anything we can throw at them. My only complaint with these rods is their vulnerability to customer abuse…but that’s inevitable and has nothing to do with the manufacturing.

Here’s a few links to “the best” kite fishing rods on the market:

• Key Largo Custom Fishing Rods
• Tom Greene Custom Fishing Rods
• Capt Harrys Custom FIshing Rods
• Crook and Crook Custom Fishing Rods
• Biscayne Fishing Rods

When you buy a kite rod for your electric kite reel – the only limiting factor is the tip.  You need to make sure your kite rod has a smooth tip that looks like this:

It makes a tremendous difference and will not snag a swivel or space in the kite line. Invest in one of these and you can ensure a smooth steady retrieve regardless of any condition.

Selecting a Kite Fishing Reel

This is a critical step in finalizing your arsenal of kite fishing equipment. The reel is the centerpiece of your outfit. It must be smooth, compact, have significant line capacity, and be durable. Almost every reel manufacturer has an open face reel designed specifically for kite fishing and the options are basically limitless.  We’ve fished a variety of reels over time and don’t limit yourself to these choices when you head out shopping.  Bear in mind you will need to purchase at least four of these reels to have a complete kite fishing spread (most charter boats fish 6 if you’re north of the Keys) so package deals and combos are a great way to go.

Penn 12V International

We have fished the 12v Internationals aboard the Marauder for about a year now and they are nothing short of amazing.  They are slightly larger and less smooth than their Shimano and Daiwa counterparts – but these reels have torque and drag power. They are smooth enough to balance the lines and have a drag that will put the breaks on any runaway sailfish.  The adjustable clicker knob is an amazing feature that enables the angler to control the resistance on the spool when maintaining the kite baits. This is a slick feature as some baits are so frisky that they’ll pull line constantly if left in free spool. With an impressive list of technical specs and a X:X retrieve ratio – if you’re willing to drop the cash you absolutely can’t go wrong with a set of 12vs for kite fishing off Miami, Florida.

Shimano Tiagra 16s

We fish the Taigra 16s aboard our friend’s boat on a regular basis.  This is the go to kite fishing reel for tournament anglers in south florida.  These reels are super smooth, super tough, and the two speed advantage is awesome when cranking down on tough fish. Tiagra’s are legendary for their unstoppable drag components and these reels are nothing short of the legend.  You can get more precision/technical with the drag settings on this reel than just about any other. To top it off, they are compact, lightweight, and come stock with a giant handle which is very comfortable in the hand. If you’re ready to go luxury, or professional, investing in a set of tiagra 16’s for your kite fishing setup will ensure years of reliable sailfish whooping.

Shimano TLD 20

The go to charter boat special.  I learned to kite fish on these reels and have used them for everything from Sailfish to Bluefin tuna.  The drags are tough, the frame is light, and you can’t beat the price. These reels are usually sold in combination with a rod, which makes outfitting a boat easy. Parts are readily available and the lever drag is sturdy enough that you’ll rarely encounter trouble. The two speed advantage here is key and you can’t go wrong. If you’re investing in your first set of kite fishing reels and looking for a balance between durability, practicality, and affordability – the TLD series is where its at.

Daiwa Saltiga Hyper Speed

A cadillac class kite fishing reel. The retrieve ratio on the Saltiga’s makes them a potent kite fishing reel for sailfish and other pelagic predators.  The reel feels light but has the torque to stand up against the toughest rival. The drags are silky smooth and the oversized handle gives you total control over the retrieve when the fight is on. In addition to being smooth, these reels have the best stopping power of nearly any open face reel on the market.  They are certainly not an affordable option, but for discerning anglers who demand premium stopping power, featherweight frame construction, and uncompromising performance – Daiwa steals the show.

Avet Raptor Series

It’s rare to even see a set of these in a tackle shop.  For the most part – you have to special order them directly from Avet.  I had the pleasure of fishing with a set of these earlier this year and it would be impossible to describe these reels as anything other than spectacular. These reels are bomb proof, have the toughest drag i’ve seen on a kite fishing reel, and are customized to meet your style requirements.  These reels are HOT! With technical specs like X:X for a retrieve ratio and weighing in at XX – an investment in Avet is the last set of kite fishing reels you will ever buy.

Fin Nor Marquesa

Another cadillac class kite fishing reel that is popular among the Miami fleet.  These reels are built with legendary durability and a tough as it gets drag system to boot. Their retro look makes them appealing to anglers who crave a composite of style and functionality.  With a slightly smaller line capacity than the Saltiga or Avet, the Fin Nor can land you in some trouble if you’re chasing tunas or pacific sailfish, but for general use in Miami waters these are some of the finest kite reels you can buy.  They are extremely corrosion resistant – more so than just about any other reel on the market.  While it’s a bit tough to find them in tackle shops, they are readily available from online retailers and often matched with custom rods.

Okuma Makaira

I have never fished the Makaira’s but a fellow charter Captain in the Florida Keys has been fishing them without any issues for months. They are a much more affordable option than Avet’s, Shimano’s, or Penn but you do compromise the integrity of the reel.  These reels are lightweight, but don’t feel as solid as other reels in their class.  The drag mechanism is strong but the retrieve ratio is considerably less than reels like the Saltiga or Marquesa. This is an excellent entry level reel that provides you with an anodized frame, but the drags just aren’t very sensitive from what i’m told.  Not bad for charter fishing because the trick is to keep the drag loose most of the time, but when you need to put the pressure on the stopping power just isn’t there.  Overall, these are great reels for the price and a great way to get started in the sport.

Other Essential Kite Fishing Gear

Aside from Rods, Reel, a Bulk Spool of your favorite 20lb hi-vis green monofilament, fishing kites, assorted tackle (hooks, weights, rigging kit, leader material, hi visibility corks), electric reels, and a boat to fish on -there’s not much else you need to go kite fishing off Miami! As you’ve undoubtedly gathered from reading this article, kite fishing is an equipment intensive sport requiring significant technical skill and tremendous attention to detail.  The nuances of kite fishing can only be learned with experience, but the gear you purchase and the rigs you employ have everything to do with your success at sea.

If you really want to get technical on those light wind days (or no wind days) purchase some helium, a few specialty balloons, and float those kites up high. Kite fishing is a tactic that works year round for just about any species that feeds at the surface.

Kite Fishing Resources

In case you didn’t get your fix from this article, here’s a list of the kite fishing resources i’ve found online that truly stand above the rest. Remember, you can study as much as you’d like but there is no substitute for time on the water.  Kite fishing can only be learned through consistent practice and fishing in a variety of conditions. Once you get the basic routine down, you’ll be well on your way to learning the intricacies of the sport.  Never be afraid to test new ideas or customize your rigs to specs you feel are necessary to get a bite.  Ingenuity can pay off big time when you discover a trick that fellow anglers have yet to consider.

• Full Kite Fishing Systems by Capt Harrys
• The Best Video Tutorial on Kite FIshing Ever
•  Kite Fishing Diagrams from West Marine
• Kite Fishing Basics from Florida Sportsman
• Kite Fishing Discussion on The Hull Truth
• Every Fishing Kite For Sale Ever
• Bass to Billfish Video Tutorial on Kite Fishing
• Kite Fishing with Helium Balloons

Our 1/2 day charter for this morning canceled at the last minute, but with all the gear on-board and the boat full of gas – it was hard to resist heading out anyway.

It was one of those pristine mornings where the ocean is slicked out (despite what the weatherman had originally called) and you can hardly tell the horizon from the sky. We stopped off at the range to pick up a few dozen cigar minnows and then headed south to jig a few wrecks and see if there were any hungry fish.

We arrived to blue water in about 170′ with a nice 3knt current pulling gently to the north. We set up on the first wreck and WHAM! My vertical jig gets crushed by a bruiser Amberjack which fought every inch of the way to the surface. We pulled the fish in the boat for a quick photo before sending him home to the deep.

After a few more passes with no bites, we pressed south towards another of our favorite wrecks only to find it covered up with bait!  We were marking solid schools of fish all over the wreck…but nothing seemed interested in our jigs or live baits we dropped down. We set up the drift and fished our way back towards Fowey without a single bite! We set up again in 160′ on the edge of the blue/green transition and again…nothing!  Hard to imagine there were no fish in the ocean today…but out of our eight frisky baits mulling about at different depths not one had so much as a scratch on it. We decided to pack up and hit the reefs.

The current was strong and the chum brought a few undersize yellow tails up behind the boat. A few solid strikes on the bottom rods but all we brought to the surface was a big rainbow runner.  With a few maintenence repairs on the dockett for the remainder of the day, we decided to call it in early and head home.

Our guests from Australia joined us for their first fishing expedition in the Atlantic Ocean with hopes of landing their first Miami Sailfish. It was one of those rough days where the swells would just not cooperate but the wind was prime for a sailfish bite.

Bait was scarce around bug light this morning, but we were able to pull a dozen cigar minnows and a few runners off the range.  The swells were relentless and made our sabiki efforts challenging. The strong south east wind sent short period waves crashing around in a confused chop, making it difficult to position the boat steadily into mild current.  We haven’t had much luck chasing down the threadfins the last few days and i’ve heard only scattered reports of them outside of Government Cut.

It took about 30 minutes to clear Fowey heading straight into the waves…taking a few over the bow at 18 knots!  It always amazes me how the waves stack up in the shallows…but offshore conditions weren’t any better.  We were met with a solid 3 to 5 as we made our way offshore and there were no other boats anywhere in our vicinity. The water was green and nasty all the way out to 200′ and there was hardly any current. Tough conditions despite strong wind for the kites.

We made a few attempts at jigging the wrecks after marking a few fish on the sounder but the waves made it difficult to stay in position. The fish circling the wreck were clearly not hungry for our vertical jigs, so we trotted south and set up on our first drift. Lines in and the first to play is a small sharp nosed atlantic shark on a mid-water rod.  Our junior angler Cody fought him to the boat and we grabbed the leader for a swift release.  We turned out attention back to the kite lines waiting for the sailfish to make an appearance.

A short 15 minutes passed before a gaffer mahi mahi went charging for a blue runner on the long bait.  The fish crushed the bait and began bounding back towards the boat, stopping momentarily to engulf the middle bait as well.  Trailing two lines, Mr. Mahi began circling the boat making sure to snag each and every line we had in the water.  After tangling all four mid water rods and wrapping the trailing kite line around the port side prop, we gaffed him and brought him on board. Sure enough – two hooks in the mouth!  Another greedy mahi mahi on ice.

After re-rigging all the lines, we set the bait back out for our second drift in about 225′. About 30 minutes into the drift the long line starts screaming and a big Miami sailfish comes rocketing out of the water right behind the boat! The mid line goes off as well and another sail goes leaping for the bow! I could hardly believe it but a third sailfish was emerging underneath the short bait – but another pesky sharp nose shark made a dash for the short bait and stole it before the sail could make it to the surface. With two wild sailfish flying around the boat and a shark wreaking havoc right off the stern, we certainly had our hands full.

Our junior angler and his father went to work on the sailfish while we released the shark.  Cody’s fish made a spectacular aerial display just off the port side of the boat and spit the hook – but his father’s fish stayed hooked up and made a dash for the horizon.  25 minutes later we had the bigger of the two sails at the boat for a quick and healthy release.

After releasing the sailfish, we trotted back out into heavier seas and set up for our final drift of the day during our 1/2 day charter. The last drift produced nothing but a few waves over the bow.  We started bringing in the lines and pitching baits over the side as we prepared to make the run home in sloppy sea conditions…and wouldn’t you know it a few small mahi showed up at the boat!  With no more bait in the wells we pitched the jigs with no luck.  The mahi swam freely around the boat for about ten minutes – Capt. Todd even took a swipe at one with the gaff but just couldn’t connect. We learned our lesson..yet again…to keep at least two or three live baits in the well on the way back to the dock.

Miami Sailfishing is heating up and the next few weeks should bring the main migration into Miami waters.  If catching a sailfish is on your wish list this holiday season – now’s the time! The sailfishing will only get better as the threadfins come in thick and  the wind shifts to a consistent NE direction.

Tight Lines,

Capt. Charlie